Heirloom Rocking Horse
5: Mark the outside edges
of parts B,C,D,E
& G and round them over on the shaper
using a 1/4"
quarter-round cutter -- or with your router and a rounding-over
bit. Do not round the front edges of the neck where it meets
with the body...or the straight, vertical edge at the rear of piece
since these edges must be square when assembled.
6: Assemble the main body
& F). Use pieces of 3/8" dowel rod to
align the parts when gluing and clamping, but DO NOT glue the dowels
in place yet. If you prefer, the body can also be assembled with
#10 x 2-1/2" flathead wood screws. Sand the body assembly on the
disc sander so all the parts are flush. See Fig.
Step 7: Mount the legs
Align the legs with 3/8" dowel rods that extend through the body
and into the legs on both sides. Disassemble, then glue and clamp
the legs into place with the dowel rods. The legs can also be assembled
without the glue by using #10 x 2-1/2" flathead wood screws. This
approach allows you to disassemble the finished rocking horse for
shipping or storage, if necessary. The screws can be covered with
stain or paint later.
8: Center the front and rear braces
(J) on the feet and attach with two #10
x 2" flathead wood screws driven up through the braces and into
the soles of each foot. Place the horse with the two attached braces
on the rockers. Make certain the horse is sitting level on the rockers
by sliding it back and forth until the body is parallel with the
floor. Fasten the front and rear braces to the rockers using #10
x 1-1/2" flathead wood screws. Attach the remaining three braces
(J) to the rockers using #10 x 1-1/2"
flathead wood screws. Round off the sharp edges of the rockers at
this point, being sure they remain fairly square for maximum stability.
9: Attach the saddle
(G or H). The 3/4" thick upholstered saddle
board (H) is attached with #10 x 1-1/2" flathead wood screws. If
you choose the 1-1/2" thick solid wood saddle (G),
it is attached with 3/8" dowels and glue. Determine the locations
for the three saddle mounting holes on the bottom of the saddle
and drive a small brad into the center of each hole location, leaving
about 1/2" of the brad protruding. Snip the heads off these brads
using wire cutters. Turn the saddle over and set it carefully in
position on the horse body. Lightly tap the top of the saddle with
your hand or fist to transfer the hole centers to the horse body.
Turn the saddle over and pull the brads out. Drill three 3/8" blind
holes in the bottom of the wood saddle (G)
and the top of the horse body at the indicated locations. Dowel
and glue the saddle to the body. Place a weight on the seat or clamp
it firmly into position while the seat dries to assure good adhesion.
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